How to Set End Play in the Front Wheel on My Harley Davidson

The wheel bearings on this bike are on the axle in the lower right of the photo.

From 1973 until 2000 all Harley-Davidson models used tapered Timkin wheel bearings on both the front and rear wheels. Since 2000 all Harleys have used sealed wheel bearings on both wheels. The current wheel bearings go on and come off as a unit with a bearing puller/installation tool. End play on the sealed bearings is pre-set. Only 1999 and earlier Harleys require that wheel bearing end play be set during installation and servicing. Sealed wheel bearing kits are available for older bikes. The sealed bearings should last 100,000 miles and the old bearings must be serviced every 10,000 miles. But it is a matter of debate as to whether the old bearings are superior to the new ones.

Difficulty:

Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Service manual for your make and year Harley
• Hex sockets
• Torque wrench
• Magnetic dial indicator
• 3 each .002 inch, .004 inch, .008 inch, .016 inch and .032 inch axle shims.
• Multi-purpose lithium grease

1. • 1

     Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.

   • 2

     Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.

   • 3

     Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than 0.18 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.

   • 4

     Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thicknesses, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.

   • 5

     Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

   • 6

     Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with lithium grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and 018 inches.

How to Change Oil on a 2003 Harley FXD

Change your Dyna's oil yourself and save money.

Regular oil and fluid changes are a part of the Harley-Davidson experience. Ensuring that your FXD Super Glide receives these oil changes will maintain its peak level of performance and extend its service life. While most FXD owners delegate this basic task to the capable hands of their local HD dealership, learning how to replace your bike's vital fluids can save you a great deal of money over the years. The process is fairly simple and can be done within an hour with the right tools.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Oil pan
• Allen key or socket set
• Socket wrench
• Shop towels
• Drain plug O-rings (3)
• Strap or oil filter wrench
• Oil filter
• Engine oil (3 Quarts)
• Primary fluid (1 Quart)
• Transmission fluid (1 Quart)

1. • 1

     Drain the fluids from the motor. The engine oil drain plug is located at the forward, left-hand side of the motor's oil pan. The primary fluid drain plug is located directly under the primary derby cover. The transmission fluid drain plug is located under the right side of the motor. Place an oil pan under the plugs as you remove them with an Allen wrench or socket.

   • 2

     Wipe the drain plugs with a shop towel to remove any debris that may have accumulated on them and replace the drain plug O-rings. Reinsert the drain plugs and lightly tighten them with an Allen wrench or socket.

   • 3

     Place an oil pan directly below the engine's oil filter. Remove the oil filter with a strap wrench or an oil filter wrench and allow any remaining oil to drain. Discard the oil filter.

   • 4

     Fill the new oil filter with up to four ounces of fresh oil, and spread a thin coating of oil around the filter's mating surface with your finger. Screw the oil filter onto the motor by hand until it is seated against the motor. Add up to 2.5 quarts of engine oil into the oil tank.

   • 5

     Remove the primary derby cover with a Torx driver or Allen key. Pour up to one quart of primary fluid into the primary case. Hold the motorcycle upright and inspect the fluid level. The fluid should be level with the bottom of the clutch assembly. Replace the primary derby cover and tighten the mounting bolts with a Torx driver or Allen key.

   • 6

     Remove the transmission filler cap and pour up to one quart of transmission fluid into the filler neck. Replace the filler cap.

   • 7

     Wipe away any spills with a shop towel.

Tips & Warnings

• Warm up the motorcycle for a few minutes and remove the filler caps to quicken the draining process.

• Use only Harley-Davidson specified oil and fluid to prevent component failure caused by improper lubrication.

• Do not attempt this task if you lack the necessary tools to complete the job. Instead, have the work performed by a qualified Harley-Davidson technician.

How to Replace the Grips on a Harley Sportster

Replacing the stock hand grips on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle can be intimidating at first. After all, you just paid thousands of dollars for this shiny machine and want to add value to it with a professional-looking upgrade. However, this is a fairly easy job and can be done by just about anybody who knows how to use a screwdriver. For many, this is the first in a long line of customizations that will be done on their motorcycle.

Difficulty:

Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Screwdriver
• Torx or Allen wrench
• String
• Ruler or tape measure
• Shop towels
• Needle nose pliers

1. • 1

     Move your motorcycle to a level surface. With the motorcycle off, place the transmission in gear to prevent movement.

   • 2

     Identify the type of bolt or screw used on your switch housing. This is the knobby structure just outside of your brake or clutch handle housing. On newer models this is likely a Torx wrench (looks like a star). On older models this may be an Allen wrench (hexagonal) or an ordinary screw. There may be as few as one or as many as three.

   • 3

     Remove the bolt(s) from the left side (clutch) housing using the correct wrench. Separate the two halves of the housing and wrap them with shop towels to prevent damage to the parts and motorcycle finish.

   • 4

     Remove the bolt(s) from the right side (brake) housing again using the wrench. Separate the two halves of the housing. At this point you will notice two wires coming out of the housing that wrap around the grip. These are the throttle control wires. Take notes or digital pictures of the placement of these wires to refer to for reattachment later. Then use the needle nose pliers to unseat them from the grip. The right grip should slide off. Then wrap the housing with shop towels.

   • 5

     Remove the left grip. Depending on the handlebars, you may have to unscrew the left grip, but on stock models these usually slide off with a gentle back-and-forth motion. Once the grip is off, wrap the string around your handlebars and use a ruler to find the diameter of your handlebars. They will typically be 1 inch but may be as large as 2 inches if you have aftermarket handlebars.

   • 6

     Purchase the correct size grips to match your style. Replace the grip on the left side, replace the housing then bolt down.

   • 7

     Slide the right grip on. Reattach the throttle cables, being careful to attach the wires in the same position as they were detached then bolt down the housing.

Tips & Warnings

• Some motorcycle handlebars taper at the ends. Because of this, measuring anywhere but the end of the handlebars may result in incorrect sizing.

• Not correctly attaching your grips may cause them to come off during riding. Ensure they are properly installed and secure before attempting to ride your motorcycle.

Harley-Davidson Bike History

Harley-Davidson Bike History

Harley-Davidson motorcycles have been manufactured by the Milwaukee-based Harley-Davidson Company since 1903 and remain today the premier motorcycle. Its classic design and outlaw image is an American pop culture icon. Harley-Davidson builds heavyweight bikes for highway cruising and is a favorite for customization. It has met with little success in building lightweight bikes and the company has virtually ignored the off-road market.

1. Origins

   • The 1903 Harley-Davidson

     The company was founded in 1903 by William Harley and Arthur Davidson. The first bike was Harley's 1901 project of placing a small 116cc engine on a pedal bicycle frame. The bike did well on flat land and small hills, but a bigger engine was needed to make it more versatile. The partners came up with a 405cc engine that helped define the modern motorcycle.

   Growth

   • The U.S. Army's 1917 Harley-Davidson Model J

     The years leading up to World War I were prosperous for Harley-Davidson as the company advertised in small journals offering engines for do-it-yourself bike projects. Competition grew stiff as motorcycle makers proliferated throughout the U.S. But Harley-Davidson led in technological advancements, including its 1911 810cc V-Twin model. By 1917, more than 16,000 motorcycles were manufactured by the company annually.

   World War I

   • A 1930 Harley-Davidson powered by a V-Twin Flathead engine

     Harley-Davidson had success in security military contracts with the 1916 Pancho Villa Expedition and won an important agreement when the U.S. entered World War I by providing 15,000 motorcycles. These contracts helped push Harley-Davidson to become the largest motorcycle builder in the world, producing nearly 30,000 a year.

   Between the Wars

   • The 1936 Knucklehead

     During the 1920s and 1930s, Harley-Davidson perfected the V-Twin engine, boosting engine displacement to 1200cc. Front brakes were added and the trademark "Teardrop" gas tank made its debut in 1925. Sales dropped after the Stock Market Crash of 1929, but engine sales for industrial use and the creation of the three-wheeled Servi-Car for deliveries helped save the company from extinction.

   World War II

   • The 1941 Harley-Davidson FL with the V-Twin Knucklehead engine

     The famed 1000cc "Knucklehead" engine, named for its unusually shaped rocker boxes, appeared in 1936, with displacement boosted to 1200cc in 1941 on the FL series motorcycles. Its reliability and power led to another series of military contracts for the war effort. It produced the WLA series motorcycles strictly for military purposes. More than 90,000 bikes were delivered during the war, earning Harley-Davidson Army-Navy "E" awards for production excellence in 1943 and 1945.

   Postwar Era

   • The 1955 Harley-Davidson Hummer was based on a Germany design

     The company also used the wartime DKW RT125 German motorcycle as a template for a similar bike that was produced from 1947 through 1966. One version, the Hummer, was produced from 1955 to 1959. The German bike also later served design for popular BSA Bantam motorcycles. From1966 to 1985, 1200 cc Shovelhead made its debut and had its displacement increased to 1345 cc in 1978.

   Today

   • The film "Easy Rider" eventually helped the company achieve mythical status

     The 1960s brought image problems to Harley-Davidson with negative press accounts of motorcycle gangs and the outlaw nature of customized "chopper" motorcycles depicted in such films as "Easy Rider" and other films. A disastrous sale to American Machinery and Foundry resulted in bikes built on the cheap and creating quality control problems. The company eventually overcame those issues and also responded to the influx of Japanese imports by emphasizing Harley's traditional look to distinguish itself from the street and off-road bikes.

How to Install LED Lights on a Harley Sportster 1200 Custom

The Harley-Davidson Sportster can be customized any way you like.

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Adding LED lights to your Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200 is one of the easiest and most functional modifications you can make on your motorcycle. Not only do LED lights look fresh and up-to-date on your bike, but they also significantly improve your night and day visibility to other drivers. Add to that the fact that LED light bulbs last as much as 10 times longer than ordinary bulbs while using just 10 percent of an ordinary light bulb's power, and you've really got no reason not to make the switch.

Difficulty:

Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Slotted screwdriver
• Dielectric grease

Suggest Edits

1. • 1

     Remove the turn signal lenses from the stock turn signal housings of the Harley-Davidson Sportster as well as the taillight lens by unscrewing the fittings that attach the lenses to their light housings. The lenses have a rubber O-ring that seals against the light housing, so they won't just fall away. With the screws removed from the lens, use your fingers to pull the lens away from the housing.

   • 2

     Twist the light bulb located within the Harley-Davidson light housing in a counterclockwise direction to free it from the socket, then pull it straight out. The replacement LED light bulb installs into this socket. Smear a small amount of dielectric grease onto the LED light bulb's electrical plug, then push the LED bulb into the socket and turn it in a clockwise direction to fasten it in place. Do this to all four turn signals as well as the brake light on the motorcycle.

   • 3

     Push the Sportster's turn signal lenses back into place and then run the screws into the mounting holes in the lens, tightening them down with the screwdriver until the lens is snug against the light housing. Do the same with the brake light lens to finish the installation.

Tips & Warnings

• Change the brake light lens along with the turn signal lenses to retain a continuous theme in the Sportster's lighting.

How to Increase Horsepower for My Harley 1980 FLH

The 1980 Harley-Davidson FLH was a large motorcycle for its time.

Increasing power on a 1980 Harley FLH Electra Glides is largely a matter of using available bolt-on parts commonly found in Harley performance catalogs. The traditional rules apply for building power: more air, more fuel, more exhaust. The 1980 FLH was a big motorcycle for its time, putting out 67 horsepower from 81 cubic inches of engine. Keeping up with today's motorcycles, however, presents a bit of a problem for FLH enthusiasts.

Difficulty:

Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• High flow exhaust
• Carburetor jetting kit
• High-flow air filter
• 3/8-inch socket set

1. • 1

     Remove and replace the stock exhaust with a high-flowing performance exhaust. If you don't want to contend with the additional noise, there are plenty of exhaust systems on the market that produce a more mellow, relaxed exhaust note while still providing the power benefits of an open exhaust.

   • 2

     Replace the stock air filter with a high-flow air filter. Although more expensive than traditional filters, they are also cleanable, so they can last quite literally for the life of your motorcycle.

   • 3

     Re-jet the carburetors. Older carburetor jets are much smaller and more inefficient than current jets. Purchasing and installing a carburetor jet kit for your FLH will let more air and fuel into the carburetor, allowing the engine to produce more power.

Tips & Warnings

• If you want still more power for your 1980 Electra Glide, consider replacing the engine altogether with a higher-displacement engine from a newer bike.

How to Install Harley Mirrors

The Harley-Davidson is an iconic motorcycle that has become a standard for the industry. Customizing Harleys is as common as finding bananas in the produce aisle, and there are tons of products out there available for installation. One of the easiest modifications is to install new mirrors, and it should take about 10 minutes to do.

Difficulty:

Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• Allen key set

1. • 1

     Unbolt the mirror from the handlebars by unscrewing the Allen head bolt that secures the rear-view mirror to the clamp that goes around the bars.

   • 2

     Remove the rear-view mirror from the body and place it to the side.

   • 3

     Place the new rear-view mirror onto the mount that goes around the handlebars and thread in the provided handlebar bolt using the Allen key set.

   • 4

     Sit on the bike and position the mirror where it's best for your visibility, then tighten the Allen key all the way down, securing the mirror to the bars.

   • 5

     Repeat this process with the mirror on the other side of the handlebars.